GearFlogger

Mountain Hardwear Hydra glove

Mountain Hardwear is pushing glove design a bit with their new OutDry extreme waterproof technology. We've been testing the men's Hydra glove, with a waterproof membrane welded directly to the soft shell outside, and it's a comer.

The Hydra is intended for alpine climbing, and as long as you understand the tradeoffs you'll love it. It doesn't have knuckle guards or a lot of insulation, and it fits snugly so if you want to wear anything thicker than the thinnest liner you may want to size up. With that in mind, the Hydra excels where you need waterproof dexterity. It has a medium thickness tough leather palm that provides excellent traction on your tools, an elastic wrist and a comfy fleecy lining inside.

The cuff has a supercool feature: there are two toggles, which confused my little climber's walnut brain at first. I finally figured out that one cinches down the cuff, and the other one - wait for it - loosens the cuff. Brilliant! No more pinching and pulling those munchkin-sized cordlocks to loosen the cuff before you slide it on over your jacket sleeve. Just crank it and yank it. The OutDry tech works as advertised too; it's always a good idea to have the membrane as far towards the exterior of a laminate fabric as possible, otherwise everything outside the membrane gets wet and compromises performance. None of that here. For its intended application the Hydra rules.

$99.95 at Altrec

Gordini Silkweight Briefs - Men's

As we all know, the primary purpose of men's underwear is to protect your pants from your ass. You gotta keep 'em separated, like the Berlin Wall or the 38th parallel. Gordini has a little something for you here.

Gordini's Silkweight men's briefs due a good job of wicking and after a few months of wearing and washing the elastic - usually the weak point for technical underwear - seems to be holding up just fine. Supposedly there's some kind of anti-microbial treatment to reduce bacteria and odor. My butt bacteria is usually pretty tough, but the Gordinis are going all Russian mafiya on my ass and keeping things under control.

These have a fly, which I've always wondered if anyone actually uses. I'm a fan of the yank-em-down method, much faster than tunneling for treasure if you know what I mean. The only downside is the fit, which is generally small especially around the thighs. If you have skinny legs order your normal size, otherwise you might consider going up one.

$8.93 (on sale from $14.50) at REI Outlet

Sport Climbing by Andrew Bisharat

Readers of Rock and Ice magazine are familiar with Andrew Bisharat's spleen-of-consciousness writing. That voice is absent as he takes a first try at the long form in his book Sport Climbing: From Top Rope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success. The result is a bit of a mixed bag: some good advice, somewhat disorganized, ultimately unsure of its audience and with some glaring omissions.

The first chapter of SC is great, covering the history of SC, how it differes from bouldering and traditional climbing, and even gets straight to the heart of the matter: climbing is about falling, failure and fear, no matter what level you're operating at. There are a number of nice psychological nuggets like this throughout the book, even if the author does let his yoga fetish go a bit too far, e.g. "Let any expectations float to the surface and evaporate in the sun." I don't know about you, but when I'm pumped out at a scary bolt it's all I can do to keep my expectations from squirting out my butt onto my belayer's head. The detailed strategy recommendations for onsighting and redpointing are likewise worthwhile.

The chapter on gear is decent, with helpful tips on when to retire different pieces, but gives incomplete advice like "wire gates are... less likely to come unclipped," and "don't clip your belay carabiner through the tie-in points" without explaining the why and why not (triaxial loading and gate lash respectively). On the other hand, great detail is given to SC-specific techniques like regaining your high point, stick clipping and cleaning a route. Even here, however, there is no mention of simply walking to the top and setting an anchor, which even for SC can be useful.

The biggest shortcoming of the book is its superficial treatment of safety. The author lists wearing a helmet as the first safety rule on page 101, but it's barely covered in the gear section and worse, there's not a single photograph or illustration of a helmet being worn anywhere in the book. Talk about too cool for school. There's also no discussion of setting anchors, fall factors, multi-pitch climbing techniques or how to escape a belay. The advice to quickdraw yourself to a bolt and climb above it also deserves more discussion: the author notes that a static fall can hurt, but neglects to mention the increased probability of total gear failure, especially with a high-tensile dogbone.

This book is the first I've read that dilutes the otherwise stellar quality of the Mountaineers Outdoor Expert series, and fails to make the GearFlogger Backcountry Bookshelf. Hopefully they'll go back to the drawing board with a more focused, balanced and comprehensive second edition.

$15.80 at Amazon

Mountain Hardwear Hooded Compressor PL jacket

The Mountain Hardwear Compressor jacket is a GearFlogger favorite from way back. It's sturdy, versatile and well-designed. It also used to be just for men, but now there's a SheFlogger specific version that makes a few sacrifices to form over function that limit its suitability for alpine epics, yet are sure to make it a big hit with the double X crowd.

The women's Compressor has a feminine cut with a nice bit of extra length in the hem and more attractive stitching pattern, including a subtle logo design and floral pattern on the inside. Instead of an external chest pocket that might ride up on the bustline when stuffed, there's a zippered pocket on the inside of the left bicep. Sounds strange, but for wallet-sized stuff and lift passes it works well.

Another difference is in the cuffs, which replace the rip-and-stick adjustment on the men's with a hidden elastic cuff. Finally, the hood is listed as helmet-compatible, but it's really not in any comfortable way, at least not over the helmet. The hood is designed more like a drop hood where the collar can stand up in front while the hood lies flat in back. On the men's version the collar stands way up, which is great for chin protection, but the women will have to tuck down a bit to get some lovin' on their Leno.

Other features match the men's version: two zippered handwarmer pockets with a microfleece lining, an interior zippered chest pocket, adjustable hood and hem and much appreciated zipper garage to save your neck. The fill has been upgraded to Primaloft ECO, which is 50% recycled. The Compressor delivers great warmth for the weight, and the wearability is excellent: it just fits and works great. It layers well thanks to the low-friction DWR ripstop nylon shell so you can easily take it into single digit backcountry excursions, or throw it on over a dress shirt for work. For serious alpine use we'd like to see more coverage of the chin, a true helmet compatible hood and rip-and-stick cuffs, but for anything else the Compressor is first rate.

$190.00 at REI

La Sportiva Spantik boot

Evolution is a beautiful thing, resulting in sublime forms such as the platypus, Brangelina, and now the La Sportiva Spantik. Three years after our original review, the Spantik still truly represents all that is good in the (alpine) world.

The Spantik achieves the holy grail of boot design: it's a double boot that feels like a single boot. It even manages to feel lighter than its 5lb 1oz scale weight, combining and improving on the best of composite shell technology from the Nuptse and the mid- and outer-sole of the Nepal EVO GTX.

What this means to you is not having to sacrifice warmth for technical prowess or vice versa. Does it work? Not just yes but hell yes. On vertical ice at temperatures well below freezing it feels nimble and precise, yet even with just a liner sock on I never felt even a tinge of cold. The fit is just a little roomy in the toe box (I have slightly narrow feet) for a perfect fit once I added a thick mountaineering sock.

The lacing system is what you first notice on the Spantik. It's a single very thin lace on each boot that closes either with a velcro tab (inner boot) or by wrapping around a disc (outer boot). Here's the beta: modify the pull on the outer boot lace so it doesn't slip over the keeper knot and carry a spare set in case of breakage and you will absolutely love it. It sets the cuff to the desired stiffness around your ankle for great support and does not slip: hallelujah!

If you can afford the price of entry, rest assured that the Spantik is not just some marketing exec's overhyped glands at work; it delivers true innovation.

$700.00 at Moosejaw

Black Diamond Sabretooth Pro crampons

Mountaineers are like dodo birds, easy to drive to extinction should anyone care enough to try. Just leave something shiny in the middle of a busy intersection. "Ooh, shiny!" Smack! Black Diamond plays both sides in this evolutionary dance by recasting the classic Sabretooth Pro crampons in lighter, shinier stainless steel.

More than just a pretty facelift, stainless steel resists rust better and sheds snow more efficiently, while still putting up with the kind of mixed-terrain abuse that shreds aluminum crampons. There's a lot more to the new design than the finish, however. The new Sabretooth is much more streamlined, including a lower profile heel adjustment assembly. The wonderful strap buckle is unchanged, as are the front points. If you put it next to the old version, the whole crampon sits a full quarter inch lower due to shorter bottom points. The frames are narrower and use less material, weighing in at 3.5oz less per side. That's almost half a pound per pair, which is real weight off your feet. It's much easier to read the markings on the new stainless spreader bar than the old colored ones. Note that you'll need the optional extended size bar if you're packing a size 12 or larger hoof.

Gone are the old optional screw-in anti balling plates; the new tool-free dual density ABS plates are standard. Both bails are redesigned. The toe bail is slightly wider, and down to two adjustment holes per side from three. The Sabretooth has always been one of the best crampons for fitting around fat toe rands on boots, especially with overboots, which some crampons simply won't fit around. The heel bail is actually a tad narrower, although it still fit on a pair of Oly Mons, if snugly. The performance is unchanged, or perhaps improved, by the slightly shorter bottom points. The shorter platform is theoretically more stable, but more importantly it feels more nimble and less likely to result in spearing yourself in the calf. Funny when it happens to your partner, not so much when it's on you. A great crampon significantly improved; good on ya, BD!

$169.95 at REI

Black Diamond Raven Pro ice axe

Black Diamond knows axes, and they know not to mess with what works. The Raven lineup has expanded to four: the Raven, Raven Pro (lighter), Raven Ultra (lightest) and Raven with grip. The updated Raven Pro gets a little work done to improve an already stellar design, but don't worry, they haven't ruined a classic like Pamela Anderson did with all her "updates."

The 7075-T6 aluminum shaft appears to be unchanged, although the finish looks little different from my older model with a less glossy feel. The most noticable difference in the Pro is another hole in the head where it meets the shaft. You can now tie a leash in to the upper hole and still leave a hole free for a carabiner should you need a little anchor action. A minor design change, but it just works better. The carabiner hole (the hole closest to the shaft) is just a smidge bigger for easier clipping.

The investment-cast stainless steel head also has just a bit more width to it across the top where you rest your palm, and the belly where you wrap your fingers is a tad less thick and wide. The blood gutter is smooth edged instead of straight cut, so it should insert and extract into snow and ice easier. The pick is the tinest bit more aggressive, and the adze has a larger cutout and slightly more aggressive edge. Overall weight remains almost identical at 16oz for the long john 75cm model. The Raven Pro still sets the standard for the classic mountaineering axe, and it's now just a notch higher.

$99.95 at REI

Granite Gear AirVent DryBloc Solid compression sack

We've covered Granite Gear bags pretty extensively, so we'll keep it short. The AirVent DryBloc Solid is an ultralight (3.5oz for the medium) bag that combines a bunch of design features.

It's a compression sack with a square cross-section like the Air Bloc Solid, and it's a roll-top drybag with an eVENT bottom like the AirVent HD Reduction DryBloc. That means you can throw your clothing and sleeping bags in it, roll the waterproof top closed and compress it, forcing the air out the eVENT bottom. Not bad.

If you're looking for all those features, say for a Muldrow approach on Denali with the requisite river crossing and other low-altitude wetness, the AirVent DryBloc Solid is a great choice. Available in four sizes.

From $26.95 at Moosejaw

SOLE Ed Viesturs Signature Series Custom Footbed

I had a hard time getting past the pitch for the "striking sublimated graphics" for something that goes inside your boots and hence you will never actually look at, but I'm dealing. At least I was until it occurred to me that the word sublimate means to "make subtle" and yet it is used in conjunction with the word "striking" and then I saw the price and my head asplode!

But OK, whatever. The SOLE EVSSCF (*ack*) is designed for high volume footwear, i.e. boots, although it can be used to correct sloppy fit and foot pain in shoes as well. It's heat moldable in just a few minutes in a standard oven, or you can let your natural foot skank mold them in place while wearing. The SOLE is beefy, with a thick and wide three layer construction: wicking top sheet, 3.2mm SOFTEC open-cell urethane in the middle and EVA foam base. The high arch support and deep heel cups provide great support, and a review of reviews shows it works to alleviate or outright cure chronic foot pain for a lot of people.

The SOLE gets the official seal of acceptance from the American Podiatric Medical Association, and that's not nuthin'. If it makes you feel better, $1 from each pair sold goes to Big City Mountaineers, a worthy nonprofit dedicated to introducing urban kids to an outdoors experience that does not involve a creepy barn and a guy in a hockey mask. If you suffer from chronic foot pain and/or are trying to correct a sloppy fit in a high volume boot or shoe, it's likely worth your while to give these things a try.

$45.00 at REI

Be Expert With Map & Compass, 3rd Edition

Using a map and compass properly is not just for boy scouts, even - especially - in the age of GPS, with more people getting into situations they aren't prepared to get out of when the battery gods abandon them. Into the breach sallies Be Expert with Map & Compass, Third Edition, an update of compass manufacturer Silva co-founder Bjorn Kjellstrom's text by his daughter Carina. Targeted at beginning and intermediate orienteers, the original text was published in 1955, so it's got legs.

This is not a quick and dirty guide to using a map and compass, which is appropriate from the man who is credited with coining the term "orienteering." It is well over 200 pages of in-depth history, instruction, drills and practice questions for the orienteering enthusiast. After the introduction the book has four sections: on maps, on the compass, using the two together and competitive orienteering. Updated material includes using a GPS with map and compass, and there is a useful fold-out practice map in back. There are plenty of useful line-drawing illustrations, although the photographs are somewhat random with a dated feel.

This book will be of most use to beginners and those interesting in the sport of orienteering. The orienteering section is fully a third of the book, more like half if you add in the orienteering parts of the other sections. The skills it teaches certainly apply to backcountry navigation, but the copious material on orienteering has little application and there are many omissions from the point of view of wilderness travellers. There is little or no discussion of coordinate/grid systems such as UTM, intersection and resection techniques, or non-compass means of determining location and heading. Bottom line: keep in mind the intended audience. Be Expert with Map & Compass, Third Edition will be greatly appreciated by beginning and intermediate orienteers, but those looking for backcountry and wilderness navigation instruction will be better served by other titles.

$12.89 at Amazon